counterpoint to an incredible final hour and half surfing in the best Fall waves I've scored yet.My plan was for a redux of yesterday in smaller surf, but a lower tide. I thought YH would be holding some small but good waves. Wrong. Disappointingly inconsistent, small, low energy goiters waddled through the line-up and over the reef, usually right through a path of chain mail kelp intend on slamming you face first onto the deck of your board. Side shore winds were blowing me out of the line-up. And the occasional rain squall felt like I should be in the mountains with a snowboard under my feet instead of a SUP. The demons of negativity took over. I stood my
ground as long as I could before throwing in the towel and heading over to Sarge's. I thought maybe I could score a couple decent waves, reclaim the session and call it a day. An inauspicious beginning.On the upside...there were fewer people at Sarge's by the time I got there. As per my usual, I lined up wide and picked off a few stragglers no one else was taking. Overall, the surf was better at my new locale. Never more than seven people out and as the afternoon moved into evening, the waves just got better...and better...and better. And more consistent too. I was the last one out of
the water, and spent 20 minutes on a literal merry-go-round to end the session. Those last half hour of rides were long ones too, from the rip-rap point to past the nudie beach or to the seawall, about 200 yards. After I kicked out or faded over the back of the wave, I slowly paddled back out to the line-up. In that last 20 minutes, I never waited more than 30 seconds for the next wave. At ten after five it was too dark for my eyes and I rode the white water as far in as I could for the take out.At least part of the explanation for the increase in wave size and consistency lies in the data below. The passing front that brought light rain and wind to the coast, brought some heavy NW
winds (29-37 mph) blowing down coast. That kicked up some amazingly well groomed nearshore wind swell driven waves, along with the remnants of the last NPAC ground swell.After three consecutive days, eight hours of SUP surfing, and waves too numerous to count, my shoulders and legs are stressed and fatigued to the max. Tomorrow has to be a rest day. Gotta rest up for the next swell.
November 27, 2009
In: 1325
Out: 1715
AT= 59-53F
WT= 54F
Wx: Scattered showers and clouds with periodic clearing
Tide: 1.16' Rising to 2.8'
Wind: Strong side shore and offshores
Sea Surface: Wind ripples and scallops with some light backwash bump late
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddleOut: 1715
AT= 59-53F
WT= 54F
Wx: Scattered showers and clouds with periodic clearing
Tide: 1.16' Rising to 2.8'
Wind: Strong side shore and offshores
Sea Surface: Wind ripples and scallops with some light backwash bump late
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (first mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
1300: 10.2 feet @ 16.0 WNW - 7.2 feet @ 14.3 W (295) (1-2 ft. faces)
1400: 10.2 feet @ 14.8 WNW - 6.6 feet @ 15.4 W (295) (3-4 ft. faces)
1500: 10.2 feet @ 16.0 WNW - 6.9 feet @ 15.4 W (295) (3-4 ft. faces)
1600: 9.2 feet @ 14.8 WNW - 6.9 feet @ 15.4 W (290) (3-5 ft. faces)
~New Wind Swell~
1700: 13.1 feet @ 14.8 NW - 6.6 feet @ 15.4 WNW (285) (4-6 ft. faces)
1800: 14.4 feet @ 10.0 NW - 8.5 feet @ 10.5 W (305) (4-6 ft. faces)
1900: 18.4 feet @ 10.0 NW - 10.5 feet @ 11.1 W (305) (4-6 ft. faces)
If you take the coast of California between San Francisco to the Mexican border, which is roughly 500 miles, and grossly estimate that there is one class “A” surf break every 50-miles, that would total 10. Then, say there is one class “B” break very 5-miles which adds 100 breaks to the total. Once again, let’s assume that there is yet another class “C” break every 5-miles to add another 100 breaks, making a grand total of 250, with, in truth, most of the surfers being drawn to the better third. Now, let’s say that there are 500,000 active surfers in California, and that on any sunny weekend day with a 4-foot swell running, that 10% will hit the surf. Now, let’s consider that at least 1/3rd of those 250 breaks will be completely off-duty due to swell direction. That makes for 50,000 surfers sharing 250-less 83 breaks=50,000/167 which means that on average, there will be 299 surfers for each working surf break along the coast between San Francisco and the Mexican border. Now let’s be real, the population is probably 2/3s in the south and 1/3 north, so the distribution at breaks would be weighted to the south. Therefore, let’s say 66% X 50,000 surfers=33,000 surfers for the working breaks in the south, and 17,000 for the working break in the north. Of course, quantifying “the better break attracting more than their share” theory means that, let’s say, 35,000 surfers surfing the top third working breaks (56) or about 625 for each of those which leaves only 15,000 for the other 111, or 155 per. In the real world, what actually happens is that over 500 surf Trestles during a day in roughly five shifts from dawn to dusk-the same at Malibu, and Huntington Pier and San Onofre, while most other breaks get way less. But any way you cut it the total mass of surfers and approximate number of surf breaks is undeniable. There could even be a cohesive mathematical theory hiding in this mess (Dick Hoye, are you there?). Mass=total human load factor, divided by the total number of breaks times 2/3s, times the average sets per/hr. times the average number of waves per set, multiplied by hours of sun light, times the price of gas? This is, of course, completely theoretical and statically askew, but the numbers don’t lie. We have outgrown our supply. 
